Death by makeup

 I   am reading about the Tale of Gengi and the women's diaries from this time in medieval Japan.

Yup. Sei Shonagon did play around a bit, but not the author of Tale of Genji.

One of Murasaki's diaries mentions a man knocking at her room asking for a poem, and she declined to see him because she hadn't put on her makeup yet, but did have her lady in waiting hand him the poem he asked for. 

Well, I was aware of blackened teeth but did women back then use white lead makeup such as we see in Geisha photos? 

and did lead poisoning make people sick?

That, plus infectious diseases like small pox, poor diet that could lead to beriberi from white rice, and of course tuberculosis, might explain why so many characters tended to die a lingering death at a young age.

Grok answers:

Yes, makeup during the Heian period (794–1185) in Japan often contained lead.

The most prominent example is oshiroi, the white face powder used by aristocratic women to achieve a pale complexion, which was a symbol of beauty and status. This powder was typically made from ground rice or other starches, but in many cases, it was mixed with white lead (basic lead carbonate) to enhance its opacity and smoothness.

Lead-based cosmetics were common across many cultures at the time, including Japan, due to their desirable texture and color.

While the Heian period's records don’t extensively detail the exact composition of all cosmetics, historical accounts and later studies of traditional Japanese makeup confirm that lead was used in oshiroi. For example, the Genji Monogatari and other Heian literature describe women applying thick white makeup, which aligns with the use of lead-based powders.

The toxicity of lead wasn’t understood then, so its use persisted despite health risks like skin damage or systemic poisoning over time. Other makeup, like beni (red lip and cheek pigment made from safflower) and sumi (black ink for eyebrows and teeth blackening, or ohaguro), didn’t typically contain lead, but the white base was the primary culprit. If you’re digging deeper into this, I can look for specific sources or analyze related content for you.

so what led me to ask this? Well this video popped up on my youtube feed.

Queen Elizabeth probably had smallpox scars and heavy make up would cover it up. 

But what about modern makeup/cosmetic customs?

well, one well known problem is arsenic in skin whiteners:

So what does Grok say about this?

Modern makeup can sometimes contain trace amounts of lead or other toxic metals, but it’s heavily regulated in many countries to minimize health risks.

uh, Grok: not only is there a risk of arsenic in skin whitener, this.BBC article is about mercury in skin whitener in Africa 

 

Here’s the breakdown: Lead: Lead is not intentionally added to cosmetics today, but it can appear as a contaminant in ingredients like pigments, talc, or mica due to natural deposits in the earth. For example, lipsticks and eyeshadows, which use mineral-based colorants, may have trace lead. The U.S. FDA sets a limit of 10 parts per million (ppm) for lead in cosmetics applied to the skin and 20 ppm for lip products, deeming these levels safe based on exposure studies. Tests by the FDA and groups like Campaign for Safe Cosmetics have found some products with lead below these thresholds (e.g., 0.1–3 ppm in lipsticks), but none exceeding dangerous levels in regulated markets. Developing countries with lax rules might have riskier products.

Other Toxic Metals: Metals like arsenic, cadmium, mercury, and chromium can also show up as impurities. These are typically found in trace amounts in mineral-based ingredients (e.g., iron oxides in foundations or eyeshadows). The EU’s Cosmetics Regulation and similar laws in Canada and the U.S. cap these at very low levels (e.g., arsenic < 3 ppm, mercury < 1 ppm). Mercury was historically used in skin-lightening creams but is now banned in most regulated markets, though illegal products still circulate, especially in parts of Asia and Africa. Health Risks: At regulated levels, these trace metals are considered safe for most people, as exposure is minimal compared to, say, food or water. However, cumulative exposure (especially for heavy makeup users) or use of unregulated products can raise concerns, like skin irritation or, in rare cases, systemic effects. Safer Options: Brands labeled “clean” or “non-toxic” often avoid mineral pigments altogether or use highly purified ingredients to reduce metal content. Certifications like ECOCERT or USDA Organic can guide choices, though they don’t guarantee zero metals. If you’re worried, check product origins—U.S., EU, Japan, and Canadian brands face stricter scrutiny than some imported goods.

when one reads about skin whiteners, one thinks: For the face.

but you know, even deodorant here for women has skin whitener. ? 

lots of explanations why, but I suspect Acanthosis nigricans? That is associated with the gene for metabolic syndrome, and when we saw it in our Objibwe patients, we kept an eye on their blood sugar.

well, anyway, I usually use Old Spice: because it was easier to just buy a man's brand when I lived in a household of men, since the boys would always end up just using the one in the bathroom.

---------------

update: So anyway, since Grok's answer above was about the well regulated market in the US, I asked specifically about third world cosmetics:

Heavy metals in makeup, particularly in products from less-regulated markets often associated with developing countries, pose significant health and environmental risks.

These metals—such as lead, mercury, cadmium, arsenic, and chromium—can contaminate cosmetics through impure raw materials, poor manufacturing practices, or intentional addition for effects like skin lightening.

The problem is amplified in regions with lax regulations, limited testing, and economic pressures that prioritize cheap production over safety. Health-wise, these metals are toxic even in small amounts.

Lead, found in lipsticks and powders, is a neurotoxin that can impair cognitive development, especially in children exposed through maternal use or direct contact.

Mercury, common in skin-lightening creams, damages kidneys and the nervous system and is absorbed through the skin.

Cadmium and arsenic, sometimes present as colorants or impurities, are linked to cancer and skin irritation.

Chromium can cause allergic reactions or, in its hexavalent form, act as a carcinogen.

Chronic exposure from daily makeup use can lead to bioaccumulation, where metals build up in the body, causing long-term harm like reproductive issues or immune system damage.

Economically and socially, the issue thrives in developing nations due to high demand for affordable beauty products, particularly skin-whitening creams driven by cultural preferences for lighter skin. These products, often produced locally or imported cheaply, bypass stringent checks. For example, studies have shown mercury levels in some fairness creams in South Asia and Africa exceeding safe limits by thousands of times, yet they remain widely sold due to weak enforcement.

Consumers, often unaware of the risks, are exposed to aggressive marketing that downplays dangers.

Environmentally, heavy metals from cosmetics contribute to pollution. Improper disposal of products releases these persistent toxins into soil and water, affecting ecosystems and food chains. Manufacturing processes in under-regulated regions also emit metal-laden waste, compounding the problem. The root causes include inadequate regulatory frameworks, corruption, or lack of resources to enforce standards. Global trade loopholes allow contaminated products to cross borders, especially into markets with less oversight. Unlike developed nations with agencies like the FDA or EU’s strict cosmetic laws, many developing countries lack equivalent systems or prioritize economic growth over safety. Solutions are tricky but not impossible. Strengthening local regulations and aligning them with international standards (like WHO or EU limits) is a start, but enforcement is key—random testing and hefty penalties could deter violations. Public awareness campaigns, tailored to cultural contexts, can shift consumer behavior away from risky products. Supporting ethical brands that test for metals and use clean ingredients could drive market change, though affordability remains a barrier. Tech like blockchain for supply chain transparency or portable testing devices could help regulators and consumers verify product safety. On the flip side, overregulation might stifle small businesses in these economies, and blanket bans on certain products could fuel black markets, where even worse quality control prevails. Cultural attitudes toward beauty standards also resist quick fixes—skin lightening, for instance, is deeply entrenched in some societies, and change requires addressing systemic biases. The problem isn’t just “third world”—global supply chains mean these issues can spill into any market. It’s a messy intersection of health, economics, and culture, and tackling it demands both local grit and global cooperation.